Thursday, June 17, 2010

Epilogue

Reality abruptly thrust itself upon me this morning when my alarm screamed into my not deaf enough ears signaling that it was time to rise and shine. Gone was the sleep until you wake and Homer chirping in the shower (ok that was the first day, after that the hearing aids stayed out until any danger of Homer caterwauling was safely over). No more chicken fried steak with sausage gravy at the local Mom and Pop diner for breakfast. Served up in its place was a 7 a.m. arrival at the jail to interview the previous evening’s misbehavers before their arraignment in Syracuse City Court at 9:30 a.m. Instead of chatting up the waitress about local sights and the river levels, it was chatting with ne’er-do-wells about their chances of release. Instead of picturesque vistas, it was the garbage burning steam plant on Rock Cut Road and I-81 construction (no missed photo ops there). Instead of text messages saying, “sounds like your having a great trip”, it was an email with distressing news about a dear friend (although a follow-up to that same email contained something that brought great joy to my heart—thanks Jillian). Yet memories of my trip with Homer are still fresh in my mind and help me realize that this is why we travel, to get a break from our day to day routines and help us remember how precious our time with one another is and how lucky we are to live in a time when technology allows us to take our loved ones along.

I hope you all got as much enjoyment out of reading our blogs as Homer and I did in writing them, our hotel room taking on the air of a newspaper cityroom trying to make deadline, and after posting, immediately checking to see what the other wrote. The Dickson Family Reunion is coming up on June 25 at Gettysburg (both of Lil’s great, great, grandfathers fought there, Campbell Dickson with the 9th NY Cavalry and Benjamin Abbott with the 20th Georgia). I will post at least one report on the weekend’s events.

In the meantime I leave you with this small bit of philosophy offered by a gnarly, young dude and his posse.

Oh and this, totally awesome.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Homerward Bound


Well, tomorrow morning, Homer and I head to the airport at 7:30 to catch a 9:35 flight to O’Hare. We are scheduled to arrive in the ‘cuse at 5:50 p.m. We traveled 1,577 miles in the Caddy, 20 miles by Steam Engine and God knows how many miles on foot since arriving at the Hertz rental car pick-up last Wednesday. Our experience over the last seven days was truly remarkable. Together, we took close to three thousand photos, saw two man made wonders, countless natural wonders and the site of one of the old west’s major debacles. We drove through miles of canyon cut by the Bighorn River, visited hot springs and dinosaur remains. We passed un-describable beauty and hardscrabble ranches. We saw exquisite houses and trailers surrounded by junked cars and equipment. There was flat, endless, treeless, arid prairie and snow-capped mountains. There were mountain goats, black tail and mule deer, antelope and prairie dogs along with oil and gas wells, 100+ car trains of coal and mile upon miles of wire fence. There is a lot of country out here, some of it desolate, much of it breath-taking. And some of it just amusing and head scratching. I’m glad to have had the chance to see it with my good friend Homer. It has been an experience I will never forget.

Getting in by 6pm

We set out from Billings, MT this morning, following our usual routine of finding breakfast at a Mom & Pop dinner and then hitting the road to our ultimate destination. Our itinerary for today was pretty open; the plan was to take the scenic (i.e. non interstate highway) back towards Denver. Our original plan was to drive to Cheyenne today, but we decided to change that in order to drive up Wyo 37 and see Devil’s Canyon (why not, we had already seen his tower) in Bighorn Canyon National Park. Round trip was about an hour plus viewing time. Homer was hemming and hawing as he likes to be in the hotel by 6pm and the side trip to the canyon would mean an 8:30-9:00pm arrival in Cheyenne and that was without stopping to see the dinosaurs in Thermopolis. Not wanting to upset his delicate balance a scheduling idiosyncrasies (years of Aunt Jane training coming into play) I suggested that we revise our plans and spend the night in Casper (the friendly town) Wyoming, saving two and a half hours and only slightly stretching Rainman’s routine (2 minutes to Wapner!!!). Well, once he saw the canyon, he was glad we went. As with Devil’s Tower, descriptive words and my photography skills just don’t do it justice. Later that day, we drove through another canyon on Rte 20 South along the Bighorn River, which flows north and gives you the impression that it is flowing up hill. We made Casper by 7:20 p.m. and after checking in to a hotel, went to the Poor Boys’ Steakhouse. They had Myers Rum for Homer. Life is good!

Monday, June 14, 2010

CUSTER MASSACRED!













On June 25, 1876, five companies of the 7th Cavalry under the command of Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer, about 225 men, perished after attacking an Indian encampment on the Little Bighorn River. It was a running battle that started at Medicine Tail Ford, near the north end of the encampment, and ended about a mile and a quarter up the bluffs at what is now called Last Stand Hill. The fighting was fierce but the numbers and terrain greatly favored the Lakota, Cheyenne and Arapaho fighting that day.
The army’s campaign against the Lakota and Cheyenne called for three separate expeditions to converge on the Indians concentrating in southeastern Montana under the leadership of Sitting Bull and Crazy Horse. Gen. Crook was to move from the south, Col. Gibbon from the west and Gen. Terry from the east. On June 17, Crook’s advance was repelled at the Battle of Rosebud, some 20 miles southeast of where Custer was killed. On June 21, Gibbon and Terry met on Yellowstone River at the mouth of Rosebud Creek, about 50 miles northeast from where the Battle of the Little Bighorn would occur. Hoping to find the Indians in the Little Bighorn Valley, Terry dispatched Custer and the 600 odd men of the 7th Cavalry up the Rosebud to approach the Little Bighorn from the south. Terry and Gibbon would proceed back up the Yellowstone and Bighorn Rivers and approach from the north. Custer set out on June 22. At dawn three days later, he located the Indian camp. Believing he had been discovered, and fearing the camp would disperse, he decided to attack.
Custer divided his command into 3 battalions, retaining five companies (C, E, F, I and L) under his command and assigning three each to Maj. Marcus Reno and Capt. Frederick Benteen. A twelfth Company is detached to escort the pack mules carrying supplies and ammunition. Benteen was to scout the bluffs to the south while Custer and Reno headed toward the camp in the valley. When they neared the river, Custer turned north toward the lower end of the encampment while Reno was to cross the river, advance down the valley and attack the upper end of the camp. As Reno rode in, a large force of Lakota came out of the camp to meet him. Reno formed a skirmish line and attempted to make a stand but the Lakota flanked him, forcing a disordered retreat to the timber along the river. Believing his position untenable, Reno continued his retreat across the river. It becomes a rout as pursuing warriors ride in among the troopers, killing 40 soldiers as they retreat to the bluffs above the river.
In the meantime, Custer, unaware that Reno has been routed, has sent a message to Benteen to move up quickly and bring the packs. Accounts seem to indicate that Custer advanced on the lower end of the camp at Medicine Tail Ford with two companies while the remaining three stayed up on a ridge a mile or so above the ford. At first only a small force meets Custer but as Reno is routed, more warriors turn to fight Custer’s force, forcing him to retreat up to the ridge reuniting with the other companies, who are also under fire. A first stand is made by Co. L at Calhoun Hill but the position is soon over run and the soldiers retreat north along the ridge toward a position held by Capt. Myles Keogh’s I Co. A devastating charge by Crazy Horse cut down retreating soldiers of C and I Cos. as they try to join Custer who is now on Last Stand Hill.
Custer and 41 of his men shoot their horses for breastworks and make a stand, apparently hoping that Reno and Benteen will come to their aid.
There is much controversy still as to whether Reno and Benteen could have ridden to Custer’s aid. They were dug in on a hill about 5 miles to the south of Last Stand Hill. They could hear the intense gunfire to the north. Capt. Thomas Weir lead his Company about a mile from the Reno/Benteen position to a hill top in an attempt to find Custer’s position. From this vantage point, now called Weir’s Point, Weir would have been able to see Last Stand Hill. He was forced off the hill and forced to return to where Reno and Benteen were dug in by attacking Lakota. Perhaps if the entire command had dashed the 5 miles to Last Stand Hill, Custer would have been saved. But Reno had lost 40 men retreating to the bluffs and there were many wounded who had to be protected along with the packs other support personnel. And Custer’s battalion was being destroyed in detail. Given the distance, terrain and disarray of Custer’s Companies, I think it is unlikely that Reno and Benteen could have ridden to the rescue.
The sights were the men of Custer’s five companies fell are marked by white marble markers and easily cover a square mile of the battlefield. The soldiers were originally buried where they were found. They were later re-interred in one grave at the site of the 7th Cavalry Memorial on Last Stand Hill. 11 officers were returned to the east and are buried in various cemeteries. Custer is buried at West Point.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Devil's Tower

With Mount Rushmore in the books, we charted a course north to Deadwood, planning a left turn that would take us to Devil’s Tower and ultimately the Little Bighorn Battlefield. I gave Gertie the coordinates for Devil’s Tower. She wanted us to head to Rapid City and pick up I-90 west (yes, that same I-90 known as the Dewey Thruwy back home). We wanted to do the scenic route up 385 so after several “recalculatings”, Gertie got with the program and we were on our way.
Deadwood is Vegas without the neon and the glamour; gambling casinos that look like bomb shelters. It is unimpressive and disappointing. We drove through in less than two minutes, and we had to stop two lights. We picked up I-90 west and got off at exit 199 in order to follow the scenic route to Devil’s Tower. Our first stop of the day was the Vore Buffalo Jump, a sinkhole where Native Americans stampeded buffalo over the edge to kill them from approximately 1500 to 1800. Prior to the Conquistadors, there were no horses in North America. Hunting individual animals on foot with a bow and arrow is difficult and dangerous. As winter approached, tribes would join together in communal hunts to provide meat and skins for the harsh winter by driving the Buffalo over the edge of this sinkhole. Thick layers of butcher bone extend almost 20 feet below the present bottom of this sink.
Spectacular doesn’t quite measure up in describing Devil’s Tower. And my pictures really don’t do it justice. It is an incredible site as it first appears on the horizon, and only becomes more breath taking as you approach. Some 50 million years ago molten magma was forced into sedimentary rocks above it and cooled underground. As it cooled, it contracted and fractured into columns. Over millions of years, erosion of the sedimentary rock exposed Devil’s Tower. It rises 867 feet from its base and stands 1,267 feet above the Belle Fourche River. Its summit is 5,112 above sea level. It was proclaimed the first national monument under the “new” Antiquities Act in 1906 by Teddy Roosevelt, whose face became a national monument in 1941 about 125 miles to the east. Devil’s Tower is sacred to Native Americans and prayer bundles have been placed in many of the trees. Visitors are warned not to feed or disturb the prairie dogs; they bite and my carry disease (woodchucks in cowboy boots). And their abandoned holes may be homes to rattlesnakes and black widow spiders. The brochure advises to avoid rattlesnakes under its “Safety and Regulations” paragraph. No kidding.
It was not quite six o’clock as we approached Sheridan, WY, 80 miles shy of Garryowen, MT and the Little Bighorn. There is a flood watch in effect for the area around the Custer Battlefield and it had been raining most of the afternoon. Given the hour and the weather, we decided to lay-up for the night in Sheridan, as we did not have a hotel reservation at our destination. Homer asked the woman at the desk where we could find a good place to eat and she said here at the hotel. Maybe so but Homer asked her “if you were going out with your boyfriend where would you want to eat?” She answered Olivers, but it’s downtown (2 miles and 3 turns). So after washing up we headed out. I kid you not when I say this place could make it in New York (wine list would need some beefing up). I had Caribbean Black Bean Soup, medallions of beef with garlic-mashed potatoes and a red wine reduction and a spinach salad, Homer had butternut squash and pan seared trout, all local ingredients and superbly prepared. And the apple pie rivaled Judy O’s. Who would have thunk it in Sheridan, WY. After dinner, we took a quick tour of the town to check the sites.
Tomorrow Custer, good Lord willing and the creek don’t rise.